Don’t be surprised if you’ve never heard of Condrieu – it’s not the world’s most famous wine. It is produced in the northern part of France’s Rhone Valley, and is one of the rarest bottled wines on the market. But, if you happen to be in the vicinity of Lyon, grab a car and head out to the vineyards.
If you are lucky enough to stumble upon the right (and they almost all are) winemaker or caviste and acquire a bottle of Condrieu, you will discover a unique and very flexible wine.
The first thing you should know is that it is full-bodied and aromatic, with a rich texture, quite different from Chardonnay. It is produced in the region of the same name, located in the northern part of the Rhone Valley in France. The wines from the Condrieu region, located on the southern – leeward and sunny side of the river, are always white and made exclusively from a single grape variety–Viognier. Condrieu is a rare wine even in France itself. This is because the harvests in this area are not so rich.
The vineyards covers just 150 hectares of stony soil, generously sprinkled with sand by Mother Nature, with a sharply continental climate where summers are exhaustingly hot and winters are cold and wet. As a result of such a strange natural anomaly for the mild climate of France, only 30,000 (plus or minus depending on the year) barrels of the divine drink are born.
Grapes have been cultivated in this area since the Romans, but viognier was planted relatively recently, in the 18th century. “Condrieu” rapidly conquered the Parisian market, but unfortunately, at the end of the nineteenth century, these vineyards were hit by the “wine plague”–phylloxera–and most of them were abandoned. Already in the middle of the twentieth century, due to low yields, labour-intensive production and quotas on minimum wages for employees, “Condrieu” went up in price, and many of its sincere fans had to grit their teeth and switch to more ordinary wines.
This wine is light yellow or golden in colour, with notes of peach, dried fruit and white flowers. But in some pickings, you’ll also detect notes of anise and melon. Experts argue about which Condrieu is the best. Some conclude that the one that has been in the barrel for 2 to 4 years–it is dry and bright on the palate. Others say that the best is the vintage aged for many years, because it can be stored for a very long time without compromising its flavour, and its flavour becomes deep, with characteristic notes of aromatic figs. Sweet Condrieu is now a rarity, but it is still being produced. Each “sweet” bottle is labelled with the inscription “Selection des Grains Nobles”. Don’t get confused!
Condrieu has a rich aroma and subtle flavour, which can be “lost” in combination with food that tastes too bright. The best pairing for Condrieu is seafood, such as salmon or other fatty fish, as well as halibut or lobster. Pork in cream sauce and steamed vegetables are also good choices. But it really opens up with creamy and thick cheeses, such as the local goat cheese.
“Condrieu is a very inexpensive wine, something that should always be taken into account. And although wines made from the same grape are also produced in the USA, Australia and Argentina – but nowhere will you find such a delicate flavour and rich aroma as in a French bottle.